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Russell Norman has a distinctive eye for an interior – ‘rough yet considered’ might sum it up. We ate an early supper at Mishkin’s and watched it fill to capacity by 8pm. Our table happened to be by the mysterious booth/private room. No less than three sets of people went in and emerged in rapid succession. Maybe they just hand over their secret documents and leave? It has more than a touch of the Tinker Tailor about it as a space.

The herring and beetroot was perfectly executed. There was a great deal on the menu we could have ordered and I wished I had ordered a chicken matzoh ball soup when it floated past my eyeline.

Word of warning: wine comes in 25 ml carafes and means that if you are feeling abstemious you could share a little glass with a friend quite happily with just the one.

This is simple Jewish fare in a fun venue that is definitely worth a visit.

@ailana

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