As founder of my university cheese and wine society, my love of Taleggio began during my formative years and has stayed with me. Gail’s has branched out from bakery/cafe to a fully blown restaurant kitchen at the new branch just off Tottenham Court Road. The first thing I read on the menu was Taleggio Toastie with Truffle. Good cheese, toasted bread and alliteration, a happy trinity. Smoked fish comes from Story’s favourite eel purveyors – Severn & Wye (link to Flavour article here please). Simple dishes such as quail’s eggs with anchovy and aoili worked well. One hour, a succession of small plates and some intense discussion later, lunch was declared a success.